Donousa
The holiday you can take home with you.
If you are looking for tranquility, simplicity and the purity of island living by escaping the crowds, then the island of Donousa is where to spend your summer and enjoy holiday peace. The island had always a cult following of travelers who seek the simpler things in life, yet its picture-perfect spots for nudism, free-camping and hiking with stunning views lately, deserve also the attention from the art-crowd and chic jet-setters.
Walk through the well-signposted trails of Donousa, sunbathe in seclusion, snorkel in Kedros beach, where the rusty wreckage of the German warship Orion rests, botanizing opportunities, go fishing, swim in the island’s isolated beaches; are few of the drop-in activities of what the surrounding area has to offer.
A castaway island with magnificent beaches and a population of 250 cats (opposed to the buzzing small community of 150 residents). Donousa’s population rate doubles during summer, and thus the best time to visit the island is mid-May to end of June. By then, soaring temperatures, plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can’t be overwhelming. Besides, the light is softer, the sea often balmier, the waters warm enough for swimming, and you will have most of the beaches all to yourself (or with perhaps a handful of French hikers and European yogis). This way, you'll also avoid the summer high season drawbacks of perhaps even staying hungry or thirsty. Bear in mind that this is a place where people come regularly to be replenished, so their beat is also pretty relaxed. Last but certainly not least, this is a cool spot without pretension and imbued with something of a “come on your own and leave with new friends” vibe. Whichever time of year you decide to visit Donousa, you will beyond doubt get to meet like-minded people.
Surprise: you don't necessarily need a car to enjoy Donousa. The best way to get around this isle is on foot, especially when you consider that the entire island only takes roughly six hours to traverse. Yet, there is also a bus service (only from late June to early September) scheduled to go from and to Stavros (the main settlement of Donousa) every 2 hours.
Unlike most places in Greece, the local community in Donousa encourages free camping, so just grab a tent and find yourself a patch of sand on the beaches of Kedros or Livadi. However, in the town of Donousa you can always find accommodation to your liking. Here there are Cycladic-style seaside-view hotels, big and small, as well as cobblestone guest houses. Otherwise, you can go for your own summer beach rental or a season-long house (Airbnb).
The traditional tavernas flanking the harbour are the way to go. Once there, you will enjoy a cup of coffee sitting next to local fishermen and if you are like enough, you will get to taste fresh fish, wild goat meat or other delicious options. Summer nights here are synonymous of cocktails at prime waterfront locations (particularly there are two beach-bars in total, one in Donousa’s town – Stavros, and one right on the beach of Kedros) or dancing until dawn at the bar overlooking the harbor.
The epitome of summer in this Cycladic beauty is without any question the salty breeze and summer memoirs, a journey through sunlight becoming a lasting memory that will not fade when you're still in winter boots and puffy coats.